This autumn winter 2012 collection, the second with Scot April Crichton at the helm, was notable by its neutrals. Stripped-back navy trouser suits, biscuit coloured wools and bottle-green shirt dresses: sometimes quiet colours shout louder than brights.

This being Rykiel, there were quirks of course. Take the cardigan skirt; button-through complete with pockets, or the overblown gingham print stretched over chiffon and square little breast pockets covering modesty on a sheer dress.

It was a collection to reposition Sonia Rykiel as a label for classic separates as much as that injection of fun.