Breitschwantz, astrakan, chamois antelope, galuchat... There's a new fashion adage doing the rounds that goes, 'If I can't pronounce it, I'm not wearing it'. And although it's impossible to condone the use of fur, there was much to admire in Lagerfeld's interplay of textures, colours and fabrics elsewhere.

We were treated to a rich, sophisticated palette of maroon, navy, brown and army green. The craftsmanship of mixing pleated georgette panels with matted felt and coated jersey was quite incredible. And a woman's shape was enhanced by curved waister belts, bustles shooting from skirts and peaked shoulders.

Lagerfeld said this was a collection 'without references from any special past' and it's refreshing to see.