Mark Fast goes for cosy

Mark Fast moved away from the spider-web knits that made his name with his autumn-winter 2012 show, shifting from the skin-tight to the substantial.

From his first looks, it was clear that Fast had applied his art to innovative knitwear designs verging on the cosy. A series of dresses featured v-necks that transitioned into exaggerated cable knits down the front. Ribbed cardigans had hoods with integrated scarves.

Cardigans? Scarves? But what about the midriff-baring specials loved by Daisy Lowe and Julia Restoin-Roitfeld? Body-hugging styles eventually had a turn—they had to, with Kanye West in the front row. A series of pale-peach minis clacked with rows of beading or wafted past in a cloud of soft, tufted fringe. It was a softer, more ethereal take on a tried and tested format. (Less winning were the jailhouse stripes and hip cut-outs the shapes of cat-eyes—impossible for anyone off the catwalk, or for anyone who valued the concept of knickers.)


Next season’s Yeti coat made an appearance too, in mottled yarns that shagged off the shoulders like cavewoman knits. In these outfits, curve-consciousness came mostly from the muscle-like ribbing and double thigh vents of the skirts and dresses underneath.

Lurex yarns created glittering, streamlining stripes in darker styles, and macramé—like fishing nets—sparkled with crystals over ocean-blue slips. It gave the audience plenty to dive into.

See the full collection here

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