Mark Fast goes for cosy

Mark Fast moved away from the spider-web knits that made his name with his autumn-winter 2012 show, shifting from the skin-tight to the substantial.

From his first looks, it was clear that Fast had applied his art to innovative knitwear designs verging on the cosy. A series of dresses featured v-necks that transitioned into exaggerated cable knits down the front. Ribbed cardigans had hoods with integrated scarves.

Cardigans? Scarves? But what about the midriff-baring specials loved by Daisy Lowe and Julia Restoin-Roitfeld? Body-hugging styles eventually had a turn—they had to, with Kanye West in the front row. A series of pale-peach minis clacked with rows of beading or wafted past in a cloud of soft, tufted fringe. It was a softer, more ethereal take on a tried and tested format. (Less winning were the jailhouse stripes and hip cut-outs the shapes of cat-eyes—impossible for anyone off the catwalk, or for anyone who valued the concept of knickers.)

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Next season’s Yeti coat made an appearance too, in mottled yarns that shagged off the shoulders like cavewoman knits. In these outfits, curve-consciousness came mostly from the muscle-like ribbing and double thigh vents of the skirts and dresses underneath.

Lurex yarns created glittering, streamlining stripes in darker styles, and macramé—like fishing nets—sparkled with crystals over ocean-blue slips. It gave the audience plenty to dive into.

See the full collection here

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