Fyodor Golan: a strong debut

Fashion Fringe winners are usually creative rising stars who produce collections with promise, but design duo Fyodor Golan today exhibited a skill and confidence that is usually only found in the most established of labels.

As their trippy techno Russian princesses and peasants danced down the catwalk in rich black jacquard, brushed metallic pleating and intricately laser cut bodices (with each cut to the model’s form perfectly) the feeling that, not only did the award go to the right people, but that we were in the presence of something very special pervade.

Was it kooky? Yes, but not un-necessarily so, the garments were intelligently cut and crafted, rather than being rooted in frivolity. The design duo didn’t need to showboat, but the model whose head, face and neck was encrusted with jade green sparkles fulfilled that brief, as did the iridescent finale gown with it’s unending skirt of intricate woollen loops and twists.

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The theme anchoring the collection was a story surrounding the final days of the Russian czars, and the rich palette and traditional weaving techniques played out the juxtaposition between the peasants and royalty of the day.

An extraordinarily high level of detail graced the catwalk, sleeves were dipped in beautiful, yet subtle jewelled embellishment and three-tiered fringing on skirts swished in a way that only perfectly-cut fringing can.

Autumn ‘12 marks and exciting start for this design double act.

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