Inspired by the engineered Japanese blue rose circa 2004, Gurung’s tackling of a man-made take on a natural beauty was exemplified in his collection, which showed his dark side— a rarity for anyone who knows him. As the all-black looks marched out on brunette models, followed by a blue moment and topped off with a finale of ivory and gold gowns shown on blondes, it, like Jason Wu, signified a move away from the ladylike aesthetic that both have become known for.

This collection upped the ante and was provocative—if for no other reason than the fact that it was precise, bold and downright sexy. Among the standouts were stunningly sculpted coats, a sheer dress embroidered with jet beads and alluring bootleg trousers. There was plenty of red carpet drama, which only helped further convey that Gurung is a designer who knows well how to cover all his bases.