With thoughts of a very cold winter and the spirit of François Hardy in mind, Yigal Azrouël conjured up an autumn winter collection 2012 that was plenty warm at New York fashion week, offering shades of protection from the elements.

Structure was the name of the game here, with beautiful tailoring and a juxtaposition between feminine and masculine dressing that was highly alluring—particularly when cast in a lineup of fabrics that included cashmere and silk, with doses of leather and fur. Silhouettes were straight and elongated and constructed without restraint—but never too loose. A fabulous winter-white wool hooded pullover top paired with skinny trousers while a cable-knit sweater seemed the perfect antidote to the oversized cardigan.

Overall Azrouël’s concept of public versus private played out subtly in his clothes; a print silk chiffon gown featured a lambskin closure while a stretch wool dress, all covered up in front, boasted an open back.