The cult Swedish brands latest London Fashion Week outing proved nothing less than a statement of principles, with a little bit of kicky country-western flair thrown in.
It started with that message about musicone of the Acne teams most important influences, according to Jonny Johanssons show notes. The collage of references that followed embraced jockeys (bicolour jackets and trousers), cowgirls (latex Stetson hats) and city-slicker chic (erm, everything else).
Thats the great thing about Acne: one moment youre looking at a billowing parachute of a dress; the next, an intelligently sexy outfit of a fitted leather waistcoat over a skirt with a thigh-high split.
Motifs that showed up repeatedly included leather and buckles. The former, abundant and covetable, was best in two-tone trousers with a baby kick flare, and a boxy grass-green jacket with black and cream banded sleeves.
Buckles, meanwhile, cut graphic horizontals across calves, waists, hips, thighs and arms. They sent different messages depending on placement: kilty across the hips of long skirts, bondage-y on leather trousers, asylum-like on straitjacket-esque gilets.
The most eye-catching buckles strapped up the leg in the statement shoe of the season. A little like Swedish Hasbeens on steroids, they featured straps and buckles extending up the calves (11 times from top to toe, according to the NYT) and felt like a so uncool its cool retort to years of studded gladiator sandals.
It was definitely a show that challenged you. I liked that, one editor said when we were still discussing what it all meant fifteen minutes later.
But far be it from Johannson to leave us mulling things over too intently. Hes also there to make us smile. So which song did he select to wrap up his madcap music-box whirl of a fashion show? 'Dancing Queen'. As in Swedish supergroup Abbas good times anthem, spliced, diced and reinterpreted for a more rocking, discerning crowd. Because thats Acne to a (slogan) tee, isnt it?
