The unveiling of Sarah Burton’s second collection as head designer at Alexander McQueen had an altogether different atmosphere to last season.
Then, six months on from the death of Alexander McQueen, the air was thick with emotion. Today it was one of excitable expectation fuelled by the rumours of a royal commission to design Kate Middleton’s wedding dress.
If Burton wanted to side-step the inevitable headlines centring on that dress this collection did nothing to dispel them. Of course it would have been put to bed long before the rumour-mill started to whirr, but oh how we love a wedding story and this hook to the tale is somewhat lighter than discussing hemlines and fabrics. Those white gowns with acres of tulle and miles of train would befit a Queen and champion her country’s talent perfectly. Quite simply they were exquisite, that nobody can deny. And the remainder (and bulk) of the collection was too.
Held in La Conciergerie where Marie-Antoinette was held prisoner before she was guillotined and Alexander McQueen held his “Supercalifragilistic” show of AW02, Burton’s Snow Queen and Her Court collection highlighted the darkness and light McQueen is known for. White high fur collars sat regally on top of exceptionally cut blazers and pencil skirts with kick flares. Metallic piping outlined the frame of the female form, mosaic-effect lacquered bodices hugged the body and there was a great deal of swan-like fur. Darkness came from leather harnesses and studded chokers. A collection of couture standard and then some. Kate, the world is watching...