Of all the things you might expect to see on the Calvin Klein Collection catwalk, sexual provocation isn’t one of them. Aside from model Lara Stone, of course, and she couldn’t take her place in the Spring Summer 2013 line-up because of visa problems.
But what was this? Short hemlines. Visible bustiers. Conical bras. Fiercely nipped waists. Transparency.
Of course, this was only part of the story. Designer Francisco Costa has a lighter hand than that. The other thing at play was fabric experimentation – edges were left unfinished, seams were bonded and what may have been leather formed a mesh cage over strapless dresses, while gold metal outlined the décolletage of another dress.
But the lasting impression was of his parade of pin-up girls and their hourglass silhouettes: stiff fabrics framing breasts, nudging waists and then exaggerating hips.
There was little actual flesh on show, but that wasn’t the point – or, rather, it was. Still, the most seductive show of the season so far.