Chitose Abe, founder and creator of fashion’s most-wanted new label, Sacai, is sitting opposite me in Rose Bakery in Dover Street Market. The Tokyo native is in London on a flying visit to take part in Dover Street Market’s 10th birthday celebrations which kicked off in earnest this morning. Nicolas Ghesquiere had just popped in to check out his new Louis Vuitton space and Pharrell Williams was expected at any moment to promote his new Comme des Garcons perfume collaboration, ‘Girl’.
Abe, who founded her label in 1998, but didn’t start showing her collection in Paris until 2009 (to rave reviews) makes clothes that are utterly identifiable, often described as ‘one thing from the front and quite another from the back’. Sacai’s ‘hybrid’ clothes are sold in over 90 stores worldwide. But her new, bigger space in Dover Street Market, impressively displayed amid bricks and steel, is probably the edit truest to the designer's autumn / winter 2014 collection.
Today, wearing her own-design hybrid top – part devore blouse, part cable knit sweater – with denim shorts, a bedazzling gold Rolex and an Hermes Birkin bag embellished with a Donald Duck sticker, Abe answered a few pressing questions…
Are you happy to be part of the 10 year anniversary at Dover Street Market?
‘Of course, it’s really about thinking of the next 10 years, so I looked to the future with the space and design and created a one-off special piece for DSM – a shirt dress – with 10 separate elements to it.’
You worked for Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garcons for eight years, can you tell us about your experience?
‘It’s hard to say, it was 17 years ago – very busy and very hard work, always new things and lots of excitement. Like any good teacher, I still care what she thinks of my work!’
What made you decide to do your own label?
‘I left Comme des Garcons when I became pregnant with my daughter. I loved being a mother but I felt something was missing, that I needed to be creative. So I started with knitting needles and 10 balls of wool.’
What persuaded you to start showing on the catwalk in Paris?
‘It was a gradual evolution. At first I questioned why I should do a show – this event, for just ten minutes – but the brand’s awareness increased dramatically, I was quite shocked.’
What inspires you?
‘It’s more of a lifestyle, not anything specific like I’m inspired by an artist or a place – nothing spectacular; it’s based on my life in Tokyo with my daughter; my real life.
How would you define your hybrid clothes?
Having at least two different elements in one piece – it looks like it might be hard to wear but is in fact very wearable – that is really important to me, wearability.
Who is the woman you’re designing for?
Myself. I try everything on myself when I design.
What’s your favourite colour?
Navy!
What other designers do you wear?
Levi’s, Nike, Supreme, Vans – all streetwear… with Sacai, that’s how I like to wear it.
Your favourite place in the world?
I like Morocco.
Your style in three words?
Just one: balance.
