As Pierre Bergé releases 'La Revolution de la Mode', a book about the beginnings of YSL's Rive Gauche in 1966 and its subsequent impact, here is Pilati referencing all that is great and good about the house's design history with 60s and 70s inspiration re-imagined.
It began with Prince of Wales checks on blazers, split skirts and cocoon coats with patent drop-waist belts - hinting of the early swinging 60s era but far more modernised than we have seen at other shows, the identifiable trends of that era re-worked. Feathers on a purple hemmed coat were woven to give a tartan effect, dogtooth was overblown in print and volume on the sleeves of jackets and covering blousons, chunky chains choked the neck in what will no doubt be the most affordable and popular entry point of the collection.
For all its patent swing shapes and exaggerated fur arms, this was a sleek and elegant aesthetic. Elsewhere we have seen these methods tested with trickier results, here it was lean and sexy. The all-white finale ticked off YSL's iconic looks that are still relevant 50 years on; the tux, the jumpsuit, a halter gown shrouded in marabou. It was faultless and was received as such by editors leaving the show.More