That the fashion press rarely venture out of black and navy proves its sway as the collective favourite of last season. A hard act to follow but Simons made it look easy.
Inspired by mid-century photographer Louise Dahl-Wolfe's work and the images of controversial 60s photographer Diane Arbus's tunic dresses, Simons gave us dynamic tailoring that echoed the couture shapes of A/W11 with sportswear and Hitchcock glamour.
Round shouldered short jackets and skiwear hooded knits were worn with narrow stirrup pants, hooped through squares in wedge boots. Black and green woven jumpers looked to be created from oversized pieces of plastic-coated thread while too-big tunic tops were proportionally balanced by cropped sleeves. Simons' continual play with proportions looks the most fresh and modern way to dress. And while last season's neon and eveningwear was one for the experimenters, AW11 calls out to a wider audience. Be it the beautiful high-waisted tailored trousers, a stunning floral print duchesse shirt or voluptuous skirt, Raf Simons manages to combine the elegant with the directional.More