Calvin and Lara Close New York

When Lara Stone closes your show - her only appearance during the whole of New York Fashion Week - it doesn't really matter what else you send down the runway. Headlines: obvious. Reviews: written. But Francisco Costa's AW11 show for Calvin Klein Collection was about so much more than an attention-grabbing exclusive appearance by the brand's 'face'.

While the idea of architectural minimalism has been beautifully explored by the designer even since he started his tenure, this was at once an authoratative statement on the subject and a softening up - about bringing a new sensitivity and sensuality to Calvin Klein Collection, maybe. While the shoes - a sort of blocky white patent flat wedge - were as severe as ever, the clothes themselves were furry and fluffy and fantastically tactile.

There was a nod to the space age futurism theme that's quietly insinuating itself this season, but the lasting impression was not about the strict little white and silver leather shifts, but rather the shearling coat, the double-faced lambskin and wool dress, the cashmere and wool fleece. In short, the pieces that you'd really like to touch. Hands-on minimalism: can we call this a trend?

See the complete collection here