Yves Saint Laurent's Spring/Summer 2011 show was held in the grand surroundings of Hotel Salomon de Rothschild, a former private mansion in the 8th. Unlike previously vast locations, this had a feeling of an intimate salon show from days gone by.
It was fitting then that Stefano Pilati chose this season to put aside creating his own statement and instead embraced the YSL archive. The jumpsuit featured heavily; some halterneck and tied with a giant bow, some with elbow-length frills. Ruffles edged along wrap skirts, sleeveless trench dresses and marabou jackets with cut-out backs will prove popular.
Pilati had used clever mechanics to make you look twice at the details. A circle print used on chiffon tea-dresses was, on closer inspection, a fingerprint multiplied and daubed over fabric. A snakeskin was textured and rubberised to look larger than life. Heels - the breadwinner for YSL - came as strappy wooden and snakeskin wedges.
This was a no-risk and commercial collection that will tick as many people's desire for classic wearability as it will put off those chasing something unique.