Stefano Pilati looks back at YSL

Stefano Pilati has so far avoided this legend when designing for the house and forged his own path instead. For his Autumn Winter 2010 show however, he looked back to pictures of YSL in magazines from the 1970s and created cut-out gold pendants of models silhouettes and a collection formed around 'corporate women, women in power'. There's some confusion then surrounding the apparently religious iconography of Nun-like habits and wimples, dog collars, pendants and hoods. The mostly black collection had a cape theme running through it with long black coats, white shirts and Perspex capes. But Stefano Pilati denied any religious symbolism.

Perhaps it was the styling then that caused this confusion and led the crowd to joke about 'getting thee to a nunnery' after the show. Looking at the pieces individually - the jumpsuit, a-line skirts, high-waisted trousers and culottes - the clothing had many strengths.

For the all-important YSL accessories, Pilati showed A4 size patent envelope bags and suede platforms with varying degrees of spiky fur vertically lining the heel.