Long wooden twigs arched over the catwalk with smoke pouring down from them and Lou Reed's Walk on the Wide Side blared out. For Autumn Winter 2010, forget modern minimalism - for Kenzo, it's all about looking back to the maximalist 1970s.
And due to its print heritage, Kenzo does 1970s rather well. Designer Antonio Marras showed floorlength patchwork print dresses with fur gilets and suede tassle necklaces. Mixed prints of floral, plaid and tartan came in yellow, purple, terracotta and red. Masculine wool blazers came with sequin front panels, gilets with fur trims and trilbys were worn with everything.
This was an upbeat and fun collection that led the way with an alternative vision for next season.