Phoebe Philo wows once more at Celine

But with her Autumn Winter collection, Philo proved that there's still a lot more fuel in the tank.

Using a strict palette of navy, olive, cream and black, the 1970s and 1980s were referenced in its purest form. Square leather patch pockets were the only detail on shift dresses and coats. High shine black leather skirts were worn with a crisp cream crepe blouse, some with long trailing neck-ties to soften the look.

It was again littered with pieces that will influence both designer and high street collections. Navy will replace black. Slim ankle-length cigarette pants will make every other shape seem outdated. The waiting list has probably already begun for her knee-high leather boots with gold block heel.

Philo produces cool, useful, beautiful clothes that women coo over in delight but feel strong and comfortable in. She can do no wrong in the fashion world's eyes and it can't be long before a design house realises her scope and gives her a label of her own.