At Paris fashion week many designers have been going back to basics, returning to the core values of their brands to deliver us great collections and some beautiful clothes to look forward to next season. With the international shows almost at an end, it would seem that all this focus on reflection and cutting back strangely seems to suit the fashion world. And one look at Karl Lagerfelds latest show for Chanel in Paris today proves it.
Staged on a less showy set than seasons past, (previously the Grand Palais has played host to a 35ft high store front, a 75ft high Chanel jacket and who could forget the giant fairground carousel?) Karls models weaved through a series of simple doorways in classic Chanel black and white, mostly tailored ensembles.
Jackets in every incarnation single breasted, frock coats, cropped riding jackets, maxi length coats and double breasted blazers - were all in classic black wool and metallic boucle. Many came with what looked like detachable details, like a cream wool ribbed collar and cuffs, tied with black ribbons, (that looked both sporty and Victorian) or a plumed cuff and collar created with beautiful white feathers.
There were nipped riding jackets atop double layer maxi chiffon skirts, as well as belted biker dresses - all for ladies who ride. And the dressage theme was even more apparent in frock coats and starched stock collars on white shirts. Biker details like zips and belts gave modern contrast and sexed things up suitably for 2009. Tailored black wool dresses with minimal details and a concealed centre front zip, were sexier still when unzipped to the waist. If anything will make a woman reach for the cheque book next season, it is timeless buys like these.
The fun element was still there. Finishing touches like pink woolly tights, bulky knitted boater hat More