Milan highlights: Pure perfection at Jil Sander

The first half of his autumn collection paid homage to Jil Sander herself revisiting the designer and her vision that founded the brand. Shown under stark bright lighting, simple relaxed and minimal tailoring (reminiscent of the nineties) featured in the collarless cashmere blazers, practically seamless dresses and rounded raglan sleeved wool coats, all in neutral palette of dove grey, nude, white, navy, camel and cream.

As the lighting changed to multi coloured spotlights and the music took on an almost eerie heart beat like sound, the theme evolved in a still refined but more futuristic, sci fi direction - inspired by the universe of French ceramist Pol Chambost. Sculptural forms, dresses and jackets moulded and padded cocoon-like around the hips, gowns in cream wool slashed to reveal black felt panelling, sculptural panelled jackets and complex confident cutting that was beautiful, flattering and graceful.

This was one of the most restrained and pure collections we have seen this season and shows that Simons is a sophisticated and sensitive designer who wants to reassure the fashion world and Sander fans alike that the future for this house lies in its purist founding roots. It also cements his position as one of Milan's greatest fashion forces right now.

By Melissa Dick

Posted 27th February 2009