Although it's been years since he designed ready-to-wear for his iconic House, this was the first collection since the death of the great YSL this summer.
And his presence was felt throughout - in signature tuxedos, kimono jackets, sheer blouses and trench coats.
Despite the references, current designer Stefano Pilati still made it all look easy and modern - and there hasn't been much of that in Paris this week.
With a front row that included '80s supermodels Claudia Schiffer (pictured), Naomi Campbell and Stephanie Seymour, this was an empowering woman-friendly collection - thanks in no small part to the patent leather latice work boots, which looked both dramatic and wearable (and there hasn't been much of that this season either).
With a nod to the Orient, in neutral colours with the odd flash of green and blood red, this was a show focused on simple feminine elegance. There were desirable dresses, especially one in soft black silk that gathered and fell across the back in a giant bow, but the the key piece was the trouser - a sort of harem pant shape in light wool crepe, slim over the hips and falling to the knee or calf, worn with a tailored jacket or transparent blouse. Mr Saint Laurent would surely have been proud.
By Avril Mair
Posted: 3rd October 2008More