Having won last years Andam prize and now having a serious amount of cash to invest in his label, he moved his show from London to Paris in a bold move that said this is one designer who is ready to step up a gear. The pressure, as they say, was on.
From the opening outfit, which paid homage to Elizabethan dress, featuring a latex ruff collar atop a dress with latex ruffled underskirts it was clear that Pugh was staying true to form and had stepped up to the plate. His creations have always been about working fetish fabrics like patent leather and PVC into theatrical shapes and strong silhouettes, and there was plenty of his trademark armour-like dresses, cleverly folded and pleated fabrics and lycra body suits to keep Pughs club-kid fans happy.
But the collection also had a softer, gentler and more wearable side that showed this Sunderland-born sensation means business. Diaphanous ruffled organza skirts, chiffon shirts with leather pleated, bib fronts and chic patent leather trench coats - all beautifully executed - underlined that Pugh is capable of evolving and working his bizarre vision into solid, grown-up saleable ideas. And that he is ready and able to apply a commercial sensibility to his unique brand of fashion.
Other stand out pieces last night were neckpieces and jewellery - the result of collaboration with Judy Blame and a perfect addition to the collection. Neckpieces made from hundreds of white safety pins took on the form of fringed, chain-mail scarves (we want one now). And this was also Pughs first foray into shoe design. Wisely he kept his footwear ideas simple and models marched in sturdy, strappy black and white platforms, in PVC of course.
Click here now to see all the pictures from the Gareth Pugh show. Plus come back every day to read all of our updates from Paris this week and find out which other designers are More