First up, Max Azrias Herve Leger - a thoroughly modern collection which generously paid homage to Legers heritage (tight bandage like mini dresses) yet also managed to look completely up to date. It was anything but a simple 1980s revival with modern twists such as armorial puff sleeved jackets, tweed and wool belted dresses, fluid grey flannel, high waisted trousers, knit layers, feathers and tulle, all contrasted masterfully against classic Leger lycra, in a muted palette of berry tones, moss green, black, putty and purple. I feel very confident in it, it really holds me in said a very svelte looking Joss Stone of the Leger dress she was wearing front row, but I am afraid I might fall over its so tight she joked! We predict shes the first in a long line of stars who will be sporting the new look Leger this year.
Next up DKNY, where the sexy 1970s vibe Karan created for spring/summer 08 was still apparent for winter in the high waisted trousers, bell sleeves, smocks and empire line voluminous cocktail dresses. For winter it was peppered with hippy, bohemian details such as from the paisley prints and fringing and the mini length dresses which kept the feeling modern and contemporary.
In contrast at Diane Von Furstenburgs 1940s inspired show, sexy land girls in belted coats with huge lapels, knee length pencil skirts and prim hats trouped down the catwalk. It was all light years away from Furstenbergs iconic 1970s wrap dresses and received whoops of rapturous applause from Molly Simms and Ellen Barkin who both sat front row.
And then, just before the Super Bowl kicked off (its like the FA cup final for Americans and even some of New Yorks chicest fashion mavens were straight off to the Super Bowl parties), Jonathan Saunders first New York fashion week show wowed the fashion cognoscenti with a grown up collection that in some ways appeared to be a departure for Saunders. Gone were his heady brights, replaced with a muted pal More