All this came from Celine's spring summer 2012 show but it was exceptional instead of the usual great. How it is that Philo stays so true to the house, her linear vision and produce something familiar yet modern and freshly exciting is a wonder. Our Brit girl renews the label just enough every season.
Folk dance was a clue to the inspiration and was written on the show booklets. This wasn't obvious at all in the austere nurse-like uniform of stiff white trench coats, ironed-down lapel dresses and buttoned-up shirts. But then came thick peplum hems kicking out from the base of tops, waists of trousers and trailing behind shirts. Forget everything the word 'folk' usually evokes, this was the genre Celine-style: clinical, colourless, functional.
Boxy cotton, leather dresses and coats with rounded arms were cinched with thick, stiff belts and this play on proportions ran throughout with 7/8th length trousers, huge blocky wedges and slightly too big tops. If you've ever wondered if you could get away with a too-big coat or dress because it was the only size left in stock, now you can.
Colour came from rich burgundy, forest green and red, used as block colours on chevron sweaters and leather pleat skirts. A winner of a collection and no surprise there.More