Haider Ackermann's exquisite show

Despite ten seasons on the catwalk, Haider Ackermann is only just shaking off his new boy status. "One to watch" said the congratulatory post-show tweets but for many, Ackermann has been a highlight of the Paris fashion week schedule for years.

His spring summer 2012 collection was so exquisite and accomplished that he should surely shake off the break-through tag once and for all. Ackermann's aesthetic has always centred around the way he twists, drapes and tucks fabric across the body. Sometimes this has been achieved in too complicated a way to comprehend wearing rather than simply marvelling at. But today saw a change. Jewel-coloured silks with stiff shoulders wrapped around the waist over slim or harem-wide trousers. Brocade, tartan and Paisley print looked deliciously rich while slit seams on leather gilets followed a detail we'd seen at Lanvin the previous day.

With models walking in slow motion to a thud, thudding soundtrack, the full collection had an intense, filmic quality. You could imagine these creatures emerging from a mist-filled moor in a Ridley Scott movie. But for those without the need for such presence, Ackermann's beautiful pleat gowns, pastel ankle grazer trousers or neat blazers will be among the season's most wanted.