What started with a few looks of neoprene sportswear at Richard Nicoll's spring show quickly moved in to a very different story.
Inspired by film director and screenwriter Henri-Georges Clouzot's work in the 50s and 60s, and a sewing pattern magazine cover of 60s sleepwear left on our seats, the remainder of the show had a Doris Day, cutesy pastel feel with a contrast of bygone styles in high-tech fabric.
Blue baby-doll gauze and clear plastic layered over slips, chintzy rose print jacquard was used on bed jackets and conical bustiers. Hemlines and tiers had rigid hoops which looked cute on minis and more awkward on the long lengths.
This being sleepwear-inspired, there was of course pyjamas - right on cure for the prevalent trend of the season - using a muted jacquard print or sheer cornflower blue.
Usually a designer to appeal to a broad demographic, this was a boundary-pusher for Nicoll. And why not, it'll be interesting to see how it's worn off the catwalk, but it was a refreshing change.More