Designers have referenced artists in their collections for as long as fashion critics have asked, Whats your inspiration? This season, a number of New York designers eliminated the need for backstage queries by making their admiration plain on the clothes.
Jason Wu cited KAWS, going one step further by collaborating with the graffiti artist on a black-and-white flower-petal print that ran through the collection. At Rodarte, Kate and Laura Mulleavy played Vincent Van Goghs sunflowers and starry nights across 50s prom dresses in an homage to the postimpressionists pigments and gestures.
A wealth of London gallery and museum exhibitions supported our creative matchmaking. So it was that we decided (entirely subjectively) that Roksanda Ilincics designs share a sculptural feel with the work of Arte Povera artist Michelangelo Pistoletto, whose work is installed at the Serpentine Gallery; and that Josiah McElhenys abstract, mirror-refracted videos (on show at the Whitechapel Gallery) might inform the digital print work of Peter Pilotto.
Giles Deacons spiders could be seen to owe a debt to Louise Bourgeoiss Maman; Ashish Gupta and Ai Weiwei both subvert modern culture by making emblem