But the decision to appoint Giles Deacon looks to have turned around the fortunes of the label at last.
His first informal presentation for the label last season was just a gentle introduction. Today ushered in a new era and showed that Deacon not only understood the brand’s history but could revive it and give it a new, strong identity.
“Paris and its constant history of pleasure” was the inspiration. And for pleasure read that of the back alley variety. Black leather chokers, stiff bustiers and strands weaving around dresses looked more kinky than classic romance. Birds of Pray were embroidered across satin bloussons and lace exposed swathes of skin.
But for all its femme fatale strength, there was a soft flipside. Cigarette smoke was made in to a sinuous print snaking across draped silk and eveningwear was decadent. The Ungaro woman is modern, relevant and sexy once more.