With a soundtrack that mixed Michael Nyman into The Prodigy’s Firestarter, he channelled a look that was almost 90s grunge – mid-calf length bias-cut slip dresses in print chiffon, crumpled argyle sweaters, punky kilts and, thrown over almost everything, a nylon parka. It’s hard to overstate just how desirable these parkas were: often fur trimmed, sometimes cropped or exaggeratedly long, worn even with the finale dresses of chiffon and beading. The detail and finish was exquisite – there is no escaping the fact that Altuzarra is a luxury label, with the price tag to match – but the mood was modern and commercial. The ideal buyer? Kate Moss, of course. It had her name written all over it.
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