How insanely hot is Theyskens Theory? Well, women paid to have the debut collection shipped over from the US because it wouldn’t arrive in the UK soon enough. That’s the kind of commitment we’re talking about. So the AW11 show was eagerly anticipated – not least because the front row were looking forward to compiling their very own shopping lists.
Olivier Theyskens, of course, is the Belgian designer famous for making Madonna a gothic ballgown in her Ray Of Light days and who now heads up this side-label for the mainstream Theory brand. That he has transitioned seamlessly into the role says everything about his incredible talents – but also for Theory’s willingness to embrace his unique aesthetic. So for all the great product that he showed – and there was a lot of great product, from long, loose-fitting trousers to little cable-knit sweaters, from floor-sweeping military coats to cheeky chiffon dresses, all in neutral shades of grey or black – there were also touches that exposed his uncompromising heart. A high-waisted silk skirt that swooped to the floor in a slither of fabric, a knee-length lace dress worn only with big knickers, super-short leather shorts… his vision stretched from the commercial to the sublime. So does anyone have the number for Fedex?