With bagpipes playing out Scotland the Brave for Moschino’s finale parade this morning, Rosella Jardini’s fun collection that looked like a literal translation of all things princess-at-Balmoral was brought to a close.
It was wittily titled ‘M-Shire: Tales of the Moschinoshire’, and riffed on tartan to the beat of 1990s Britpop – Oasis, The Verve and Blur – combining the passions of the house of Moschino: heritage, wit and what appeared to be a playful nod to English-aristo dressing.
In fact, it wasn’t just as the show notes put it, a ‘heartfelt love for the British world’, the heroine of this story was Ann Bonfoey Taylor, the American jet-set society queen, Olympic skier, flying instructor, Wimbledon tennis player and accomplished rider. She was there with all the Scottish mania, in the equestrian outfits and the skinny ski sweater that suddenly appeared with fringed suede western trousers, or the striking trouser suit in scarlet and black jacquard (she was fond of a stand-out piece), or the bum-bags – according to Google, she was an early adopter of the ‘fanny-pack’, as Americans call it.
The models, entered and exited through two large gilt-framed ‘doors’, clad in velvet riding hats or Tam o’ Shanters and neat trouser suits, princess-line coats, dresses and kilts. There were plenty of gold embroidered love hearts with a swirly ‘M’ picked out on the backs of jackets or monogrammed on pockets and red rose embroideries scattered liberally on all of the above.
Before the final set of black and white (Franco Moschino’s heartland with which no current Moschino show is complete) were a selection of cute uniforms – models in twin charcoal tailored trousersuits and bow ties – and uniforms that recalled Japanese schoolgirls.
As the show notes put it: “plus ca change, plus c’est la meme chose”. The more things change, the more they remain the same.