Among the fashion crowd there’s an expectation that, when the inevitable designer reshufflle takes place in order to fill the vacancy at Dior, Ackermann could end up with the top spot at one of the big fashion houses. As yet it’s just speculation - a favourite front row pastime - but if today’s show was an audition then he triumphed with ease.
The designer has an incredible talent for mastering and manipulating fabrics, cutting and folding them with such elegance and finesse that it’s a pleasure to watch. The autumn silhouette was long and lean and relaxed, and complemented perfectly by the low key, emotive recording of Leonard Cohen reading a poem called ‘A Thousand Kisses Deep’ in the background.
Leather jackets were wrapped over wide, elegant trousers, long coats had full, billowing backs, there were long wool pencil skirts and perfectly cut coats with handfuls of sequins. Every look was beautifully crafted, but the pieces that were made up of twisted, pleated and draped fabric that really shone, the jewel coloured long gowns made from yards of fabric arranged just so and waisted by wide leather belts, or the full satin trousers teamed with a wrapped, sculpted top. Who knows what the next few months holds for Ackermann, but the future certainly looks bright.