In just four seasons, the designer has established an impressive reputation and a client list that includes Michelle Obama, Demi Moore and Oprah Winfrey. Now for something new! “No one needs another cashmere sweater,” he said backstage, explaining his creative turnaround. Claiming as inspiration Miss Havisham, the tragic jilted bride of Charles Dickens’ Great Expectations, sex and romance were on his mind – an acapella version of Addicted To Love opened the show and it closed with an exquisitely embellished strapless gown fit for a bride (or, more likely, the Oscars next month). Feathers, sequins, tattered chiffon, printed lace and softly coloured Mongolian lamb made up the bulk of the collection, tethered with black leather straps that cinched coats and held up dresses, toned down by bondage-effect tights and fierce ankle boots or strappy shoes. Luxe but still youthful, this was a show inspired by love - but it succeeded in creating lust.