The venue was a crumbling old 19th Century building on the bottom end of Manhattan. But the assured collection shown by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler for spring summer 2013 was uncompromising in its modernity.
In the ten years since graduation, the duo has established itself as a powerful force in New York fashion. Last week they opened their first store on Madison Avenue. With this show, they confirmed their ambition and status.
The designers said they wanted to explore 'a mix of technology and craft.' So far, so predictable: this is shaping up to be quite the seasonal trend. But their skill and inventiveness took a collection of only skirts, dresses and amazing samurai coats into new, exploratory territory.
Leather, exotic skins, collaged photo prints, jersey and studs: these things were patchworked together into sophisticated, complex looks.
The first outfit was as simple as it got: a flippy skirt in perforated leather, worn with a sleeveless jeans-style gilet in colour-blocked python and tough below-the-knee gladiator boots. By the end, their brilliant inventiveness was simply astounding.
So here’s to another ten years, boys. We can’t wait to see what you’ve got in store.