The idea of ‘winter longing for summer’ guided Thakoon Panichgul’s poetic autumn winter 2013 collection. It all started with the designer’s re-reading of sci-fi writer Ray Bradbury’s Dandelion Wine. ‘There was this looking back at summer through winter, and almost looking forward to summer,’ he said backstage. ‘It was almost like a memory.’
That sentiment gave rise to wistful prints of dragonflies and dandelions. Why the dandelions should seem slightly sad was hard to say - maybe it’s their ephemeral nature, or because they’re so often assigned the same non-status as a weed. No matter. It’s unlikely they’ve ever been so celebrated as they were when blown up on Thakoon’s printed wool sleeveless dress with lace insets at the side and hem.
That same custom lace came spliced into black sleeveless shirt dresses and jumpsuits, acting as skylights to the skin. Colour entered in ‘winter floral’ prints and dusky pastel fur shawls and jackets—another combination of winter (texture) and summer (hue).
The collection balanced grown-up shapes with purity; sweetness with an intellectual sex appeal. ‘I like that tension between something that feels whimsical, but has a sensuality to it,’ Thakoon said. Job done.