It's going to be a good season for Marc Jacobs. You can tell that by the authority and confidence that informed his mainline show earlier this week - and by its rave reviews afterwards.
Of course, his junior line, Marc By Marc Jacobs, is more playful and less directional - sometimes, like a collection of well-priced pieces rather than a coherent fashion point of view. But not this time. For AW11, Marc romped joyously through the 70s, managing to bring a grown up sensibility to floppy hats and oversized sunglasses, shiny print blouses and gold leather skirts. These were the more extreme elements in the collection: the rest of it included tweedy trouser suits, midi skirts, swingy coats, long-sleeved dresses, wide-legged trousers and some brilliant shearling wedge boots that had the front row all a-twitter. Sitting opposite Marc's long-time business partner Robert Duffy, his excitement was clear to see. Is it any wonder?