Last season,Chanel’s air hostesses,Jean Paul Gaultier’s Amy Winehouse lookalikes and Riccardo Tisci’s goth-glam basketballers enlivened the concept of couture. There are more enticements in store with the autumn winter 2012 couture shows, starting this Sunday in Paris.
Fashion’s most dignified show week will commence with a flash of glam in the form of the Atelier Versace show. Donatella has chosen to present a couture collection with a full-scale show for the first time since 2004. The doyenne of the thigh slit is also bringing Versace back to its spiritual home in Paris, the Ritz, just before the legendary hotel closes for a two-year refurbishment.
The collection plays with the ideas of ‘construction and deconstruction,’ Versace told WWD, invoking these concepts through patchworked, treated fabrics, rose-gold embellishment and tarot-card prints. ‘I imagined Picasso disassembling the images and then putting them back together,’ she told the paper. ‘Tarots are symbols of the future—I prefer a link with the future rather than with the past or the present.’
The following day, Raf Simons will make his debut with Christian Dior couture in what is certain to be the most closely watched show of the week. It’s the designer’s first outing on the couture schedule and as Dior’s artistic director—expect grand things.
Giambattista Valli follows Dior, while Chanel, Stephane Rolland, Giorgio Armani Prive and Givenchy will show on Tuesday 3 July. Elie Saab, Jean Paul Gaultier and Valentino will round out proceedings on Wednesday the 4th, giving us dreams to grow on for another season.
Check our Catwalk channel next week for the latest images from the AW12 couture shows... Until then, revisit the SS12 couture collections.