At the end of an eventful fashion month, our Fashion Director Anne-Marie Curtis charts her favourite shows of the season.
"The Prada Autumn Winter '16 collection followed on from Miuccia's pre-fall outing with this idea of displacement and travel. It felt chaotic, but in a mannered way. Miuccia does controlled chaos so well. This sense of finding various things and adding them as you go. But there was also a lot of sex in there as well: the laced up boots, corseted waists and the sailor hats in particular all paired with tough hiking boots and argyle hosiery. The Prada woman is stomping along, running the world. It's Girl Power, Miuccia style."
Dries Van Noten
@driesvannoten took his inspiration for autumn from the Marchesa Casati, a woman who ranks pretty high on the list of fashion’s all-time favourite references, using the icon as a jumping off point to explore the masculine and feminine. But he mined the familiar to create something that felt completely desirable and chic: mannish suiting jazzed up with stripes, leopard print and sequins and elegant, decadent pajamas for day and evening (yes, they’re going to continue to be a major thing). See images from the show and read our recap of our first day at #PFW #AW16 on ELLEuk.com @lineisymontero (��: @washingtonpost/@gettyimages)
"It appears Balenciaga has finally managed to recapture the excitement that surrounded it during the golden Nicolas Ghesquiere years — especially impressive in a season plagued with a certain amount of collective despair over the state of things in the industry. In a way, Demna Gvsalia is the face of the broken fashion system. This is a rising star who has been able to emerge out of the chaos to create something energising and new. The future doesn’t look so bleak after all."
"Simone Rocha's Autumn Winter '16 show was a masterclass in segueing bold new ideas into her much lauded signature style. So think sweeping tweed coats with drop shoulder detail layered over tulle dresses; satin drop waist dresses with a 30s mood; and black tulle layered over dogtooth checks. And the shoes...almost every look showcased a different pair all equally desirable. All this only three months after giving birth to her first child, motherhood has only added to her creativity."
#PhoebePhilo is the reason you like your trousers to be loose and relaxed, your trainers to be Stan Smiths and your handbags to be hardware-free. She's the reason why you wore Birkenstocks and normcore two summers ago, are experimenting with the kick-flare trouser and ribbed knits now, and are considering buying those funny ballet-slipper like shoes with the block heel. She¹s that rare designer who has the power to consistently create new ideas that trickle down the fashion flagpole, get referenced and copied, and eventually become new trends. She impacts not just the kinds of ideas we buy into (a slip dress one moment, a bell bottom the next) but the overall shape and silhouette of the clothing we wear. And while her #AW16 #Céline collection didn't reveal any huge surprises, there was enough newness that's worth picking apart for the impact it might have later. Read the key takeaways from her show on ELLEuk.com. (✏️: @kenyahunt/��: #JasonLloydEvans)
"The Maison Margiela collection was a high octane statement that in John Galliano's masterful hands felt right on the money for the overriding maximilist mood of the season. His eccentric, artful take on the idea included military mixed with sequins and florals mashed up with knits. Teamed with glam rock glitter platforms and multi coloured hiking boots, it was a slam dunk knockout from beginning to end."
"Inspired by Daphne du Maurier's most famous creation, Rebecca, complete with a sumptuous set re-imagining the gothic, frayed decadence of Manderley, Erdem's Autumn Winter '16 show moved on from last season's prairie mood to something more decadent and darker. Think gold lame, richly embroidered flowers laid over black tulle, and exquisite inlaid lace dresses fit for modern Mrs De Winters and Rebeccas alike. Rich pickings indeed.'
Is it time for us to take the edge off and soften up? At @worldmcqueen, tough black tailoring gave way to a stream of soft, hyper-feminine pink. Fashion has always gravitated towards opposing ideas and no show captured the central theme running through #AW16 — that of darkness and lightness — than Alexander McQueen. In the show’s return to #LFW, #SarahBurton explored the tension between the moody and gothic and romantic and feminine that’s been coursing its way from New York to London. Go to the link in our bio to find out everything you need to know about the week's most anticipated show. (✏️: @kenyahunt/��: @daisywalker)