Dispatches from Paris: Céline

Phoebe Philo's fashion superpower

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We trust Phoebe Philo. Her eye, taste and vision. We rely on her to put the last four weeks of fashion shows in perspective. She’s a fashion cryptologist, decoding the trends that matter, the silhouettes that work, the looks that will be copied and ultimately the pieces you’ll want to wear. She sieves the wheat from the chaff and then assembles it in a way that is new. That’s her fashion superpower.
 
Céline is all about phenomenal merchandising: not a single look is repeated in the show, with a different shoe, bag and jewellery item on every model. That’s 41 ways to wear Céline, folks! Like the proverbial sweet shop, it’s a pick ‘n’ mix of tantalising options.
 
Herewith, the Céline listicle of big trends that matter, and Phoebe’s new spin on them.
 

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1)     Lingerie

Underwear as outerwear is everywhere this season and will strike fear in the hearts of most grown ups. Philo’s answer? If you’re not up for a risqué slip in satin and lace try a camisole under a biker jacket with masculine trousers. Still not convinced? Get the camisole effect in a knitted vest, pair with black pants and pointy white flats.

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2)     Boots

When it comes to footwear, Céline is the industry’s go-to brand, seen on almost every fashion professionals’ feet. And Philo has declared the boot the frontrunner for spring. Spike-toed Cuban-heels, flat and square-toed in white or round-toed rubber jodhpur-style in red. You will want them all. 

 

3)     Curvy Silhouettes

 Philo delivered the season’s new silhouette on tops, jackets, coats and dresses: shoulders are round and soft with big puffed sleeves (rolled) with the addition of a deep, scooped neckline for evening in black satin. To counter the volume, waists are nipped, but not with a belt! Case in point: the coats with tight-knit panels around the ribs. 

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4)     The Knit Dress

It was ultra simple in navy, paprika, bone and black, with balletic necklines and high-waist pleat skirts. And note Philo’s passion for turning techno-advanced fabrics into wearable classic shapes.

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5)     Earrings

Big black hoops, modern metal prongs that scrape the shoulder bone, a single dangler with a Perspex ice-like cube or a combination of two of the above, worn in each ear. 

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6)     Military

In just one look – a green mac over a flight lieutenant’s boiler suit – Philo nails the most convincing army look of the season.

 
7)     The Pillow Bag

It’s not a major trend, yet, but definitely worthy of the Céline top ten. The squishy leather handbag in grey, white or black with a handle and shoulder strap goes straight to the top of the bag charts. 

 
8)     Sequins

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We’ve seen them all over the place, but here, we saw just a single top encrusted with sequins; an apparently simple t-shirt shape from the front, tied like an apron at the neck to reveal a bare back. 

 
9)     Flats

The shoes! The red shoes! They’re flat, pointed and come in plaited leather or black, pointed with crisscross straps. Philo meets the demands of women who like to walk fast.
 

10) The Red Lip

The real tell that Philo was looking at how to contemporise the classics? Look no further than the matte scarlet lip.

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