NYFW AW16 Day 5: 6 Things To Discuss

The new trouser shape, the return of the logo, and the shade of the season

Most Popular

1) The Row's quiet understatement

The Row ❤️ #fall2016 #therow #nyfw

A photo posted by Jessica Lewis (@___jessicalewis) on

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below

This was classic New York minimalism, from the impeccably stylish interiors of Mary-Kate and Ashley’s loft-style showroom (think mid-century modern furniture, fig trees, exposed concrete walls and the kind of cream carpet you would never actually have in your house) to the pared-back clothes, which were seemingly designed for the kind of people who live or aspire to dwell in apartments exactly like this. There were duster coats worn with tailored trousers and the finest gauze polonecks; long, languid silk-jersey dresses; and fine knits tucked into high-waisted cigarette pants, all in tonal shades of taupe, beige and tan. At the top of our wish-list: a floor-length tobacco-coloured leather coat, the kind of piece you don't imagine you'd need until you see it.
- Harriet Stewart, Market & Retail Editor

Most Popular

2) We’re on a boat

Couldn't have done it without these ladies. Brilliant show everyone! -TH #TommyFall16 #NYFW #BonVoyage

A photo posted by Tommy Hilfiger (@tommyhilfiger) on

Tommy Hilfiger turned his runway into a big elaborate ship with Gigi Hadid and a fleet of mega-models on board for his AW16 show. Never mind that the clothes looked and felt more spring than winter (where was the boat headed? St Barths?), with pretty silk 1940s-esque dresses, sailor pants and navy and gold nautical motifs throughout. That super-yacht vibe made for a fun moment of mid-winter escapism, with Lucky Blue Smith and Suki Waterhouse sitting front row. Another thing to note: the season is rife with military references. Consider it an extension of fashion’s current love of functional, utilitarian pieces. But these girls won’t be going out into anyone’s battlefield anytime soon. Instead, Hilfiger’s naval coats and jackets were a conduit for dressing up. The Royal Marines this is not.
- Kenya Hunt, Fashion Features Director

Now that's what we call a bon voyage! The sirens of the TH Atlantic stunning the crowd at #TommyFall16 #NYFW

A photo posted by Tommy Hilfiger (@tommyhilfiger) on

3) Brown as a berry

Shades of caramel, tobacco and cinnamon have been cropping up a lot this fashion week. And to be frank, the colour can be a hard sell. On paper, brown velvet just doesn't have a nice ring to it. But on 3.1 Phillip Lim’s runway the colour looked both sumptuous and cool in the form of a relaxed, velvet tailored suit (above) or a classic pea coat. And remember what we said about military references? They were in high supply, from the quilted parachute coats and jackets at Lim to the heavier, hybrid anoraks (below) and ribbed knit jumpers in army green at Rag & Bone. You'll want them all.
- Kenya Hunt, Fashion Features Director

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below

4) The new trouser shape

Is it a sweat pant? A tailored trouser? The bottom half of a tracksuit? Or a mix of all three? Imagine a conventional pair of trousers, add just the right amount of slouch, and tack on the elasticated ankle cuffs of sweatpants and you have the new trouser that made an appearance at Victoria Beckham, Karen Walker (below) and 3.1 Phillip Lim, to name a few. As my colleague Harriet Stewart says, 'We’ve re-jigged the flare three times now, exhausted culottes, and don’t even get us started on skinny jeans.’ Will this new trouser shape become a full-blown trend? Let’s keep an eye on it to see if it has legs.
- Kenya Hunt, Fashion Features Director 

Most Popular

5) Logos and slogans

What started as a throwback moment for SS16 has carried over into autumn. This is about literally wearing your convictions (or designer label preference) on your sleeve (or chest). At Alexander Wang this idea surfaced through cheeky words with sexual implications stamped on sheer shirts (above). At Rag & Bone (below), it was interpreted in a more literal, sporty manner: sweatshirts emblazoned with the brand name. Well, at least it saves you from having to incessantly answer, 'Hey, where did you get that from?'
- Kenya Hunt, Fashion Features Director

6) Shine on

GUITAR GURL @karliekloss STRUTTING IT ON THE RUNWAY IN MY FALL COLLECTION #COWBOYSANDPOODLES 🐮➕🙇🏻 & 🐩

A photo posted by Jeremy Scott (@itsjeremyscott) on

So in the one corner we have the girl who will be taking her cues from army men in uniform and in the other we have the girl who will wrap herself in colour and camp prints and graphics at Jeremy Scott. His collection was all Fifties-era fun with a rock music guitar motif, cowboy boots and Ren and Stimpy cartoon references. Americana at its best. Another thing to note was the use of Lurex, which is emerging as a trending idea this week. Your knits will look very shimmery come next fall.
- Kenya Hunt, Fashion Features Director

HAPPY HAPPY JOY JOY ! REN & STIMPY COWBOY BOOTS FROM MY NEW COLLECTION #COWBOYSANDPOODLES 🐮➕🙇🏻 & 🐩

A photo posted by Jeremy Scott (@itsjeremyscott) on

7) Sock it to them

Lim has given us permission to bring back that old sock and sandal combination. This time, chunky flat sandals were paired with embellished chenille socks for a sporty-but-polished look, a great transeasonal way of dressing. 

Note: Buy the best socks you can get, it doesn't work if your socks are threadbare. 
- Michelle Duguid, Senior Fashion Editor

Images: GETTY

... Powered by Samsung

high street
GIF
What to wear
Share
The Ultimate High Street Edit
237 high street buys, picked by ELLE for you
Trends
Share
5 Models Who've Slayed Fashion Week
Walk this way.​
Milan Fashion Week street style Anna Dello Russo
What to wear
Share
Milan Fashion Week SS17 Street Style: Day 1
Gucci brought the street style favourites out on the first day of MFW​
Ciara at Roberto Cavalli SS17
Celebrity Style
Share
Stars At Milan Fashion Week
From Ciara at Roberto Cavalli to Serena Williams at Gucci
Advertisement - Continue Reading Below