NYFW AW16 Day 6: Rodarte's New Gothic And The Cult Of Vetements

Plus, Coach's all-weather coats and Oscar de la Renta's Oscar-worthy dresses


1) Get your coat at Coach


In the span of two days, New York has gone from sub-zero to comparatively tropical temperatures. And appropriately, Coach creative director Stuart Vevers showed an outerwear option for every weather system. Snow? See the shaggy shearling coats. A light chill? Try the Varsity letter jackets. Rain? Consider the little leather numbers. There was basically a coat for every woman, no matter what the weather forecast; maybe that’s due to the fact that Vevers is a Brit living in America, and therefore familiar with all the many meteorological possibilities winter can bring. No matter, the collection helped to further rebrand the label – still most known for its mumsy handbags – and further sealed Coach’s status as a place to turn to for outerwear that is as warm and functional as it is of-the-moment. In other news, Chloë Moretz and Ciara, looking fresh after a night at the Grammys, sat front row.


2) Rodarte’s gothic romance

One of the biggest takeaways here is that a vaguely gothic attitude is spreading throughout New York – though to be fair, Kate and Laura Mulleavy have always served up fantastical dresses with dark undertones. The goth feeling surfacing in AW16 is less about black lipstick (but yes, dark lips have made a few appearances this week), mournful rock and Wednesday Addams wannabes. It’s more about a general sombre, funereal mood (at Rodarte, the set was decorated with trampled flowers and rubble, as if zombie brides had literally broken through their graves), which may or may not reflect the feeling in the air culturally and politically right now. More to come on that later. And one more thing to note: lace is everywhere this week. Rodarte used it liberally: a pair of sheer, lace trousers here, a ruffled slip dress there. Lingerie dressing, one of spring’s big trends, looks like it will definitely hang around for the following winter. 


3) Oscar predictions at Oscar de la Renta

With so many changes of guard at the fashion houses lately, it can be disorienting when a new designer joins a house and gives it a major overhaul very quickly.  So far, Oscar de la Renta (ODLR) under Peter Copping’s creative direction has been less about disruption and more about a deepening of the codes of the brand. There wasn’t anything in his pretty cocktail dresses and gowns that would put off ODLR’s loyal, long-time fan base of socialites and first ladies. And his modern tweaks on classic evening ideas (a leather bonded dress or a gold jacquard trouser suit for cocktail hour anyone?) were just fresh enough to appeal to younger new recruits. The big question is, which actress will wear an Oscar to the Oscars? We think this raspberry bustier and taffeta skirt has Rachel McAdams’ name written all over it.

4) One word: Vetements


A photo posted by VETEMENTS (@vetements_official) on

As we’ve mentioned before, logos and slogans are trending this week, but on the street-style circuit outside the shows, only one seems to matter: Vetements. The black hooded raincoat with the simple white brand logo on the back is easily one of the week’s most ubiquitous pieces. Blame all the snow and rain. Runner-up: Gucci’s furry loafer.  


A photo posted by VETEMENTS (@vetements_official) on


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