1) The Dazed Kids of DKNY
DKNY's new Creative Directors Dao Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne win the prize for best slogans of the week. Models were sent down the catwalk in tees emblazoned with ironically self-aware messages composed with the brand's initials: ‘Designers Know Nothing Yet', ‘Don’t Knock New York', and ‘Dazed Kids New York’. They looked fun on the runway as the linchpins to a series of grunge looks made up of oversized puffer jackets, billowing wide-leg pants and silk dresses. But, most importantly, they looked even cooler on the street as the models - still dressed in their Instagram-bait tees - spilled out post-show. It didn’t hurt matters that the casting featured the models of the moment: Adwoa Aboah with a fresh buzzcut, Lineisy Montero, Binx Walton, Isabella Emmack, Xiao Xing Li and Ruth Bell. What 21-year-old wouldn’t want a piece of that? Well played.
2) Michael Kors Went Major
He kicked the show off with model Freja Beha Erichsen in a pair of ostrich-feather-embellished jeans, setting the tone for a line-up of major girls in majorly glamorous clothes. There was Kendall Jenner in a retro-futuristic silver mini dress with metallic rings; Imaan Hammam in a blingy, feathery haze; and Lineisy Montero in luxe tweed and fur. In a way the Kors woman, in all of her retro-flavoured eccentricity, looked like a distant American cousin to the Gucci girl - right down to the block-heeled loafers. Besides all the exotic feathers, the collection neatly summed up some of the season’s recurring ideas: plenty of velvet, shades of chocolate and cinnamon and, most impressively, much of it is available to buy now, courtesy of Kors new 'ready-to-wear, ready-to-go initiative'.
3) The Velvet Revolution
To her credit, Anna Sui sticks to her own singular bohemian vision, and if the trends align with it on any given season then so be it. This week the two were remarkably in sync. Velvet, one of the new season’s fabrics of choice, and brown, one of its preferred colours, looked best in the form of her piled-on, bohemian, patterned looks.
4) See A Proenza Dress, Buy A Proenza Dress
Add Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez to the list of designers who are testing out the direct-to-consumer approach this fashion week. The press notes announced that the brand would be offering a selection of runway looks for immediate purchase, and indeed the line-up of slick, ribbed knit dresses and fluid, oversized tailoring looked neatly merchandised as if it were ready to get marched off to the nearest sales floor. Let’s hope the steel-toe boots and covetable folded bags will be included. Sellability aside, the clothes were also the week's strongest statement to date. There was something in the slightly undone quality to the polish of it all, with decorative lacing holding sections of dresses together and slivers of flesh peeking through loosely stitched ribbons on others. It was that rare New York moment that struck the right balance between art and commerce — and fortunately, we won't have to wait six months to buy it.
5) Yeezy Tweets
Kanye West, a long-time regular at the shows in all four fashion cities, has been noticeably missing since kicking off the week with his Yeezy presentation. But even in his absence, his spirit hovers over Fashion - that's mostly because of his outrageous tweets, which have become the thing to read and discuss while killing time during those random idle moments while waiting for a show to start. Our favourite:
6) The New Tailoring At Hugo Boss
It's worth noting that both Proenza Schouler and Hugo Boss showed sinewy, fluid tailoring. Boss creative director Jason Wu's slouchy suits might be a bellweather of what's to come throughout the month.
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