NYFW AW16 Day 8: The New Neutral And The New Cool

Goth girls, Zoë Kravitz and the new cool FROW at Marc, Calvin and Ralph


1) Brown is New York’s new neutral colour of choice


After a week of regular appearances, Ralph Lauren confirmed this by featuring a lineup of classic sportswear in varying chocolate-box shades (nougat, caramel, the list goes on). Of all of the options we’ve seen this week, the colour, which has long been a hallmark of the brand, made the most sense within the context of his riff on British to-the-manor-born dressing by way of the US with all of his traditional plaids, checks and tweeds. Among the collection’s most memorable pieces was a shearling, blanket coat in a Navajo print and the trim blazers paired with voluminous culottes, a vintage Ralph Lauren look that never gets old.


2) Time to get loose

The long, lithe tailoring that Calvin Klein made popular in the Nineties, and then came back in fashion again via Céline in the Noughties, doesn’t appear to be going away anytime soon. It just keeps getting updated from design house to design house, season to season. And no wonder; it’s a foolproof way to look effortless and cool. This time round, the update seems to come through the addition of strips, straps and bandages as seen at Proenza Schouler and Calvin Klein. At Calvin, Creative Direction Francisco Costa deftly mixed the soft and the hard, taking elements of the light lingerie dressing he showed last spring and rendering it in black, further toughening it up with masculine tailoring and ribbons of satin and leather.

3) All black everything


From start to finish, we’ve been playing a game of spot-the-goth all week long, following a trail of black lipstick, smoky eyeliner and velvet that ultimately led us to Marc Jacobs’ wonderfully creepy extravaganza last night. The clothes – amazingly piled-on looks of tweed, feather, fur, silk and paillettes – spoke so loudly that they practically reduced the models to faceless mannequins, an impressive thing considering the cast included a nearly unrecognisable Lady Gaga and Kendall Jenner. It was an emotive moment that left the audience – a room of cynical people who have seen it all – cheering and looking pretty giddy. So yes, the goth punk slayed New York.

4) Marc had the last word

This deserves a bullet point of its own because if you follow fashion you know that it’s been rife with gossip the past year; talk of who is leaving which house, who is on the verge of burnout, and so on. And Marc Jacobs hasn’t exactly been immune to this but after so much speculation about the status of his relevancy and business, it surely must have been sweet to shut down the trolls in such an undebatable way. The swagger in his finale walk was pretty telling.

5) The FROW was very New Cool

The front row in New York has been looking very New Cool this week and day eight epitomised this, from Zoë Kravitz and Adwoa Aboah joining Kendall Jenner and Abbey Lee Kershaw at Calvin Klein, to Amandla Stenberg and Kate Mara sitting alongside the likes of Marc muses Sofia Coppola, Sandra Bernhard and Bette Midler at Marc Jacobs. Bring on the new school. 


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