1) Shrimps Gives Us More
A fashion-pack favourite for her fun faux furs, designer Hannah Weiland has extended her line to leather jackets, illustrated suits and glittery accessories. Her AW16 collection showcased girlish colours such as baby pink styled in an offbeat ladylike way: think pencil skirts granny-chic handbags worn with faux-fur stoles worn with sheer ankle socks. Thank you, Shrimps, for showing us all how to unashamedly embrace our feminine side with your bubblegum-sweet collection.
2) Isa Arfen's Pursuit Of The Perfect White Shirt
Isa Arfen’s shirts are always on point. Whether ruffled, cuffed or wrapped around the body, she has a knack for creating the perfect white shirt that, ultimately, we’re all looking for. And this season, her frilled, décolletage-baring version is no exception. When tucked into high-waisted jeans like this, and finished off with a pair of jewel-toned velvet platforms, it is exactly what we want to wear right now.
3) Lessons In Head-To-Toe Knits At Sibling
If you can’t quite see yourself in a knitted Lurex body sock (and who could blame you?), then your take-away from the Sibling show should be this: try a pair of glittery socks worn with chunky, tasseled brogues; or for rainy weekends like this a big, slouchy jumper layered over a longer, fine-knit mididress. Head-to-toe knits made easy.
4) Faustine Steinmetz's Day At The Museum
Faustine Steinmetz, one of the British designers that had us reaching for the scissors to fray up our denim in past seasons, turned her hand to other textures today. Mohair, cotton and metal corsets felt grown up, but no less lust-worthy than her past collections. Ever the conceptualist, Faustine’s installation within an installation at the Tate Britain was accompanied by audio guides like those you get in galleries, and even the bags felt like takeaway sculptures. Now that's our kind of museum gift shop.
5) Julien Macdonald's Gender-fluid Eveningwear
Whilst there was the usual theatrics and Welsh jazz that follows Julien Macdonald, this season also saw a considerable amount of men on the catwalk. Buckled up and brutal, the Macdonald tribe meant clubland war. Note: gender fluidity now also comes in eveningwear.
6) Holly Fulton: Queen Of The Roll-Neck-Hair-Tuck
Holly Fulton was all about the roll neck and the hair tuck. Actually, the hair tuck has welcomed the chin into its fold, so make that the chin tuck. Basically, the chicest way to stay warm sans-scarf. Adopt it now. When it comes to accessories, the small cross-body bag is still a winner, but it is elevated with a wide embellished strap. Most important accessories development: the bag sits at the back. Yup, it's an actual bum bag, people.
7) 1205's Capsule Wardrobe
1205's tranquil AW16 collection had all the elements you'd need to build the most perfect capsule wardrobe.
An elegant mix of silk, cotton and shearling in a tonal palette of white, navy and burnt orange, the cuts were clean and simple, elevated with well-placed slits. In short, every minimalist's dream.
8) Barbara Casasola and the art of undressing
Casasola sent out Maxmara-esque camel cashmere coats, grey trouser suits and slightly sporty crisp white dresses, but it was the sheer silk knit that stole the show and added to the sensuality. Soft triangle bras, pajama bottoms with the drawstring left undone and a simple sheer dress all in a nude or pale washed-out lime green. This woman felt sexual, languid and slightly crumbled but paired with the crispness of the other chosen cotton pieces it felt relaxed for next season and we were left feeling that she was a chic woman whoever she was dressing (or undressing) for.
9) Emilia Wickstead Colour and shape
Emilia Wickstead has rightly made the eveningwear market her own by offering a modern twist on old world couture shapes. Although there were no great shocks in this collection it felt like things were slightly freer. Imagine a girl getting dressed for Sixties London and cocktail parties, smoke-filled Soho and Jazz bars. Her usual voluminous shapes, exaggerated balloon skirts, uses of beautiful bold colour and billowing sleeves were still present but the introduction of much shorter Sixties mini dress felt fresh and easy as did the use of denim as an eveningwear fabric. All in all, Wickstead fans will love her for this collection.
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