1) Preen's Making Us Rethink Pink
A Nirvana soundtrack, pink velvet, bejewelled combat boots and the most decadent sequined dresses: Does it get any cooler than Preen's AW16 collection?
Even a girl who is allergic to pink like me can't resist the appeal and pull of a shaggy, full-length fur coat the shade of candy floss.
It sounds wrong but looks so right.
Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi's grunge line-up was one of the week's best so far and a strong statement for their 20th anniversary year.
- Kenya Hunt, Fashion Features Director
2) David Koma’s Shirt-Polo Hybrid
All hail our favourite wardrobe layering tool, the humble poloneck, which is showing no signs of going anywhere next season.
There was one for every occasion at David Koma.
A white cotton shirt-poloneck-hybrid that would work well with tailored trousers for the office; an updated version of the classic black poloneck that was a mixture of leather and sheer panels; an embellished black one with a contrasting red neck and clusters of crystals on the front; and finally, another black option with signature David Koma cut-outs trimmed with blue on one shoulder.
And we want all of them.
- Harriet Stewart, Market & Retail Editor
3) Mary Katrantzou's Optimism
Magpies who won't want to buy into autumn/winter's dark, moody side can rejoice: Mary Katrantzou's collection was unapologetically cheery and upbeat, with its piled on colours, textures, glitter, stars and hearts.
She described the collection as a celebration of Americana and love, and there was a sense of optimism that stood in stark contrast to the general mood of angst and anxiety that's been colouring larger conversations happening in the fashion world right now.
There was an uncomplicated happiness about the clothes, from the patchwork jackets and pleated shimmery skirts right down to the satin multicoloured socks and heels. More of this please.
- Kenya Hunt, Fashion Features Director
4) Anya Hindmarch Plays A Game Of Tetris
Anya always pulls out all the stops when it comes to her set design offerings, and this season was no different.
Giant sugar cube blocks rolled across the catwalk in a Tetris-like formation while models walked in geometric lines sporting bags with embellished pixelated detailing.
Coats splattered with eggs, boots covered in Anya stickers and smiley face pockets - when it comes to accessories for AW16, just make them happy.
- Billie Bhatia, Fashion Assistant
5) Paul Smith: The New Classic
Paul Smith went back to his roots for this collection, shown at The Royal College of Physicians. One of the only Post War buildings to be granted Grade I-listed status, it is a celebration of modernism. How apt a setting: Smith's was a new spin on the techniques and masculine shapes he trailblazed in his early years.
The first look, a signature black masculine suit, was followed by more suits (perfect in their simplicity), and cashmere-coat-and-trouser combos in faded Sixities colours. Masculine shapes are always the foundation of his collections, and with traditional gender lines becoming increasingly blurred on fashion, Smith would be wise to own this look.
In fact, it was when he explored more feminine shapes that the looks were more hit and miss, as was the use of print. A printed floral two-piece felt and joyful, but the pieces with paisley and bitten-apple applique left us longing for his signature boyish simplicity.
- Michelle Duguid, Senior Fashion Editor
Margaret Howell: The Cult Continues
The cult of Margaret Howell shows no signs of abating anytime soon. The appeal of her clothes is that, rather than following trends as such, each collection is just more of the things we really want to wear. That's not to say the design isn't thought out because, of course, it is: Howell is renowned for creating modern classics.
Her AW16 collection was no different in its approach. The palette was warm: shades of camel and tobacco (which is turning out to be the colour of the season) were broken up with crisp white, charcoal and checks. Mannish high-waisted trousers, shirt dresses, circle skirts and long black shorts all had instantly identifiable Howell twist – you will either love them or you won't. What was new?
The collar shapes were longer and pointy, the suit jackets were shorter and more schoolboy, and the introduction of traditional evening fabrics such as velvet and silk – but don’t fret, they were still in daytime shapes. We absolutely loved the velvet ballet slippers that were used to feminise some of the looks. Get your name on the waiting list, now.
- Michelle Duguid, Senior Fashion Editor
Vivienne Westwood: Stripped back and iconic
When the Vivienne Westwood show invitation asks for ‘intellectuals to unite’, you have no idea what you are in for. A riot, a revolution, or a protest like the last show? The ever-spirited Westwood choose to, as ever, buck the trend and do the opposite of what was expected, instead opting to show her AW16 collection on a – Shock! Horror! – simple, traditional catwalk. This was clever: the clothes felt more important and considered for it.
Choosing models that looked like they had walked out of an 18th-Century painting did much to set the usual Westwood tone, and she sent out clothes that you will have seen many times before but really loved. From the classic gypsy blouses and silk-draped corset dresses, to the pirate-striped cotton and great masculine tailoring, it was classic Westwood, the standout outfit being the pink suit styled with her signature Buffalo hat. It will be a good year for Westwood – and her fans will love it.
- Michelle Duguid, Senior Fashion Editor
All Aboard The Temperley Ship
Alice Temperley welcomed us aboard her pirate ship this evening, literally. At the masthead were her classic folk designs reworked with embroidery, giant ruffled necks and scarves teamed with the frilliest of sleeves. But it wasn't just inspired by pirates, it was a reimagining everything sea-like: iridescent, shimmering, purple ruffled dresses for your inner mermaid and white delicate tulle delicately layered on top of each other for the wayfaring damsel. How to wear these watery motifs back on land? With colour block ankle boots and evening dresses. Trust us, it's a thing.
- Billie Bhatia, Fashion Assistant
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Images: GETTY / IMAXTREE
