1) The New Romantics
Love and romanticism is definitely in the air in London this week. Mary Katrantzou literally referred to fashion as the act of 'making love' in her show-notes yesterday while Alexander McQueen, with its soft pinks, looked like a Valentine's Day card to womanhood and femininity.
Erdem kept the amorous feeling going with a collection that explored the dark allure and tortured romance of film noir. Filled with elegant, Hitchcockian dresses, think Tippi Hedren in The Birds in deep shades of wine and navy with Forties peplums and frills, it also brought to mind Lauren Bacall whose image featured prominently on the designer's inspiration board.
A theatrical set of old-Hollywood film props and dramatic date-night lighting heightened the mood, making it even easier to fall in love with the glamour of the golden era all over again.
-Kenya Hunt, Fashion Features Director
2) Cause For Celebration At Roksanda
Today was somewhat of a milestone for Roksanda, as we watched her thousandth dress swish down the catwalk. Having built her brand on dresses that women really want to wear (Sam Cam, the Duchess of Cambridge and Cate Blanchett are all fans), you can always expect some killer frocks from the London designer, and this season was no different. There were empire-line velvet gowns with fluted sleeves and ribbon bows at the back, belted-wool numbers in her signature jewel tones, and an intricate navy tiered lace one that was said, loud and clear, 'Dress Number 1,000.'
There’s more. In addition to the millennial celebrations – and in a savvy commercial move – Roksanda also launched a handbag line this morning, comprising of leather bags and coin purses that will be available towards the end of the summer.
Dresses and handbags aside though, it was the row of attentive five-year-olds – made up of her daughter’s classmates, each with their own colouring-in book – that stole the show.
- Harriet Stewart, Market & Retail Editor
3) From Cape To Collar
If you’ve ever struggled to get on well with a cape (and we wouldn’t blame you - the no-sleeves handbag situation a tricky one) then AW16 provides a solution. Enter the cape-collar, for want of a better description. This new collar, with its jumbo shoulder-skimming shape, debuted today at Osman on white and gold shirts and at Roksanda on jumpers. It is, incidentally, reminiscent of last season’s printed blue and white Miu Miu blouse, which was the undisputed street-style hero of 2015. I'm betting on this being the cape collar's year.
- Harriet Stewart, Market & Retail Editor
4) An injection of cool at Pringle
There is a change afoot at Pringle of Scotland. Its AW16 show was the first from the new womenswear Design Director Fran Stringer, who upped the ante by showing a great collection that injected youthful cool back into the heritage brand.
When you think of Pringle what comes to mind? Cashmere twinsets, right? Stringer used this as her starting point and took Pringle on a revitalising journey, expanding into the idea of full knit dressing. Case in point: an oversized, luxuriously fluffy sweater worn over a ribbed maxiskirt with heavy, grungy Chelsea boots.
Pringle originally started as a underwear and hosiery maker, which also led Stringer into creating a series of pieces inspired by lingerie shapes. She looked at traditional knitting designs, such as the iconic Arran sweater, and worked corsetry detailing into the weave. The most appealing look was a bustier layered on top of an evergreen angora jumper which hung loosely off the shoulders. It felt like the right side of Nineties grunge, with just the right amount of effortless chic. Another favourite, a simple knit camisole dress worn with a shearling coat, was also relaxed and feminine.
By pushing the idea of what knitwear can be, Stringer created a relaxed wardrobe of clothes that we would all like to wear through the cold winter. Bravo Fran, a great first collection.
- Michelle Duguid, Senior Fashion Editor
5) Peter Pilotto's Nordic ice queen
Like most people in the world, designers are obsessed by the weather - including Peter Pilotto, who drove us through an icy Nordic winterscape, using folkloric symbolism for inspiration. Thankfully, this wasn’t as literal as a ski collection, although there were dashes of it. Rather, the beautiful snowy colours and patterns were picked out from the frozen landscape and their woman came out in a selection of outfits fit for a mystical Seventies ice queen.
It is hard to dress for extreme conditions, so how would this ice queen dress for the conditions in question? Obviously, she would wear beautiful guipure lace and lyrex dresses in offbeat tones of pale pink, muted silver and amethyst. She would layer thin high-neck ski jumpers under everything, and she would wear liquid satin trackpads and dresses to add fluidity and depth of colour. The standout silhouettes were the coats, of course, and are guaranteed to be a commercial hit. The opening coat in particular was fit for the ice queen, with patterns pulled out of silver lurex. A full-length fluffy navy duffle coat was also majestic.
Pilotto also has range of jewellery with Atelier Swarovski launching this season. Cue hairpins that resembled tiaras, bejewelled cuffs and statement earrings that would keep even Mariah happy. All that glitters indeed.
- Michelle Duguid, Senior Fashion Editor
