1. Bottega Veneta’s tonal dresses
The biggest wins in Creative Director Tomas Maier’s polished, grownup collection were a series of tonal dresses with trim, leotard-tight tops, soft corsets and pleated, floaty skirts. They were chic and, as ELLE UK Editor-in-Chief Lorraine Candy observed, the perfect thing to wear to a winter wedding. Other standouts included his timeless, understated tailoring, including a refreshingly simple, white double-breasted suit.
2. A case for the future at Jil Sander
With every other designer looking to the past, there’s something to be said about a brand that has the courage to look forward rather than drawing from the decades that came before. Creative Director Rodolfo Paglialunga’s collection for Jil Sander, with standouts that included a slick metallic rose-coloured shirt-dress, a clever pea coat with silver, isoelectric line-like top stitching and shimmery minimalist knits, didn’t feel vintage. That was refreshing and worth applauding in this era of seemingly endless throwback looks. The problem was that Paglialunga’s dresses and separates didn’t feel particularly energising and bordered on the sterile. Must the future look so cold?
3. The coolest girly girl at Philosophy
Creative Director Lorenzo Serafini imagined what would happen if Lady Diana met Siouxsie Sioux and mixed the ‘sweetness’ with the ‘anti-establisment punk rock’ qualities of both women to create his quirky, romantic, Eighties-esque dresses. The ruffle, a big trend this season, looked unapologetically girly but entirely cool and desirable. Why? Because he rocked up the pink, lace and frilly flourishes on his blouses and dresses with leather jackets, drawstring-waist trousers, slouchy knee-high leather boots, and varied fabrics including velvet and leather.
