London Fashion Week SS17: Day One

​All the action from the first day of the London shows


Ashley Williams' Teenage Dream

We were beckoned into Ashley William's 90s bedroom – complete with unicorn blow ups, raggedy teddy bears and something that looked like Back to the Future fuzzing across a big old TV, with the score to Jurassic Park blaring overhead. This was the ultimate 90s paraphernalia. 

Ashley Williams SS17

Ashley's almost entirely street-cast girls (with the exception of Adwoa and Fernanda) worked their way up and down the catwalk slouched, shuffling their rhinestone-encrusted platforms in a collection that ranged from River Phoenix-emblazoned on a t-shirt dress, to a bomber jacket stamped with 'FIRSTBORN'. What came in-between was a hybrid of the grungy skater girl and super-girly frills – an eclectic and nostalgic teenage dream. 

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A New Blue and Mermaids at Fashion East

This was AV Roberston's second collection (with Marc Jacobs giving his stamp of approval for her first collection) there was high expectation on the Fashion East opener. Her second collection looked like unearthed mermaids: hair slicked down but with an unruly wave, an ethereal looking blue glittered lip and delicate embellishment made for a swoon moment. Otherwordly with a sci-fi slant, Roberston sent down dainty chiffons coupled with bold collars and her signature delicate crystal embellishment. 

AV Robertson SS17

This was Matty Bovan's first collection after working for fashion brands such as Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu and Marc Jacobs. Bovan's vision is a rebellion against conventional taste: a catwalk of rave girls and cyber punks entangled in neon threads and topped off with candy-coloured clay jewellery handmade by Matty's mum, Plum Bovan. It was a show that reminded us sometimes fashion doesn't need to follow any kind of rhyme or reason, sometimes it's just pure imagination. 

Matty Bovan SS17

'Malone Blue' (that's what we are calling it) is the kind of blue you work your way up to wearing. It's not as safe as navy and it's not as garish as turquoise, it's that in-the-middle spring blue that looks beyond fresh. Richard Malone's collection made for the sporty side of Fashion East: slim striped column dress, bare shoulders, the summer roll neck, and the essential knots of bows we have come to expect of a spring collection all seemed a little tame but offset by the soundtrack of Boss Ass Bitch by PTAF – the collection suddenly became kind of bad ass. Bring on that blue hue, one more listen to Boss Ass Bitch and we're ready. 

Richard Malone SS17

Mother Of Pearl's Nonplussed Girl

When Mother of Pearl send hoodies down the catwalk you know it's time to sit up and listen. It gave sleeves cinched together with pearl fastenings, silver-foil ruffled necks and frayed-edge jacquard sleeves - this was ladylike coming undone. This girl, swathed in ruffles and pearls, wasn't bothered whether you thought she was polished or not, she doesn't have time for wasted thoughts. If her lipstick was smudged her lipstick was smudged, if her hair had some frizz, deal with it. 

Mother Of Pearl SS17

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