The rave Marc Jacobs started in New York has carried well over into London with a slew of designers offering a full menu of looks for every kind of club kid and every possible type of warehouse party.
And in an age in which day wear rules ready-to-wear, the sight of so many playful party clothes everywhere from Ashley Williams to Topshop is frankly refreshing. That's because it wakes the mind up by confronting it with new possibilities. Like, how about work less, and play more? When was the last time you got really dressed up?
The presence of all the nightlife references also begs the question, why now? Maybe it's about rebelling against the political climate as London did during the Thatcher years. And after the turmoil the first half of 2016 has wrought, who knows, maybe we collectively just need to escape from it all and get loose — or lit AF. No matter what your scene, LFW is providing a look for it.
Topshop's culture club
The Topshop team joined the See Now Buy Now party with its first in-season collection, which hit stores immediately following the show.
While the brand is celebrating 'the thrill of the new' as it rolls out its new retail strategy, the clothes communicated a sense of nostalgia for the past — specifically that point in the Eighties when clubbing wasn't just 'reserved for Saturday night,' according to the press notes, but was a clear signifier of a tribe and a way of life. As a result, practically every look had a day-to-night quality to it.
Take off that grey blazer and that slick patent LBD is ready to take you from 6pm to 6am. Roll the top half of that jumpsuit down to expose your animal print bodysuit and the dance floor is yours.
High on Molly
For her first London Fashion Week runway show, Molly Goddard turned her catwalk into a party with models dancing and swaying en masse, in a slightly dazed (high?) state.
She channeled the underground club scene to explore those 'who use their clothes as a means to embrace freedom, escaping the mundanities of their working lives.'
That meant updating her trademark smocked and tulle dresses in neon, rainbow-bright colours and adding in cropped frilled utility pants into the mix. And like the perfect all-nighter, it was pure, uncomplicated fun.
The punks wear pink at Preen
One of Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi's earliest influences was the local nightlife in the Isle of Man where they're from, and the mixing of goths, punks, and new romantics they saw there.
Those early reference points have long been a recurring theme in their work. But this season, they pushed it further by working in elements of pagan rituals and witchcraft to create a more challenging look than the luxurious take on grunge they showed last Fall.
Sometimes a collection defies any kind of neat explanation, as this one did here. But there were some key takeaways for those who have been keeping track of the season's trends. First, frills are inarguably one of SS17's biggest themes. But unlike the sweet and girly offerings we've seen so far, Preen's ruffles had bite (exactly how we like it.)
These were pink frills a punk can wear. Second: floaty, swingy, handkerchief skirts on dresses are appearing everywhere (Proenza Schouler in New York, J.W. Anderson in London, Preen, the list grows and grows).
Preen's shimmery floral versions, with their undone quality, are among some of the best. And the shape is so easy to wear, odds are high it will be infinitely sellable. Speaking of, Justin and Thea have dipped a toe into the season's pool of shoppable collections. They're making three total looks from the collection available for sale on Preenbythorntonbregazzi.com
