By Carolyn Caldicott

Mumbai isa crowded city squeezed into a narrow causeway, so space is short, and everyone wants a piece of it and its glamour. You'll find everything from sleek and modern to nostalgic colonial style, either down town or in one of the up- and- coming suburbs, and even though they can be expensive by Indian standards, you can still find 5 star hotels for half the price of those in Europe. Book early if you can - they are always in great demand

TAJ MAHAL PALACE

The Taj Mahal Palace is an iconic and enduring heritage beauty, much loved by Mumbaikars and guests alike. Its imposing position overlooking the Gateway of India (the 26 metre- high, seafront arch built as a monument to the British Raj) and the Arabian Sea lends it immediate romance. Built in 1903, it has impressed the likes of Brad and Angelina, Barack Obama and Mick Jagger with its grand sweeping staircase, stately, arched, rattan–fanned terrace and wonderful swimming pool Always welcoming, with impeccable service, sumptuous rooms in elegant, colonial style, 10 restaurants ( from Japanese to Moroccan) , and its historic Harbour Bar, it is the undisputed grande dame of Mumbai hotels.

Taj Mahal Palace, Apollo Bunder, Colaba, +91 22 6653518, tajhotels.com Doubles from £150,room only

ITC MARATHA

International flights to and from Mumbai always seem to arrive and depart at the most unsociable hours, and ITC Maratha offers the perfect, palm-shaded oasis just minutes from the airport. Its spacious rooms come with an electric massage chair and herb teas to ease your travel-weary body, a pillow menu and aromatherapy oil to help you sleep, and there is even an iron and ironing board so you look your best for your onward journey. If you have a few hours to kill, catch some rays at the sunny pool or enjoy a top-notch meal at the in-house Peshwari, one of the best tandoori restaurants in town.

ITC Maratha, Sahar Road, Andheri East, +91 22 2830 3030, itcwelcomegroup.in Doubles from £117, room only

ASCOT HOTEL

If you are looking for a stylish hotel in downtown Colaba, just a short walk from some of Mumbai's best shopping and nightlife, but without the usual hefty price tag, then head for the Ascot Hotel. On a quiet leafy tree lined street just minutes from the seafront of Colaba Causeway, its Art Deco façade hides an intimate, 27-room gem with a distinctly boutique feel. There is no pool, but its deco-inspired, marble-floored lobby has a cute restaurant for breakfast and its hardwood hallways open on to light-filled, modern rooms with huge, quilted leather headboards, crisp linen, and the essential flat screen TV.

Ascot Hotel, 38, Garden road, Colaba, Mumbai, +91 22 6638 5555 , ascothotel.com Doubles from £65, B&B

TAJ LANDS END BANDRA

Bandra is the new black, the fun and funky district of north Mumbai, favoured by Bollywood glitterati and the young IT crowd. Packed full of cool shops, cafes and bars, it's a great place to hang out for a day or two. Taj Lands End is the place to stay, slap bang on the sea front. Sip a cocktail in its buzzing, orchid- filled Atrium lounge and watch the stylish crowd waft in and out in their organza and jewelled finery. Rooms are modern and super comfy with huge beds and amazing views of the sea, (the generous marble bathroom has a glass wall so you can enjoy it from the tub), and even the swimming pool has a sea view, and with a reasonably priced spa (£30 for a full body massage), it can't be beaten for value.

Taj Lands End, Bandstand, Bandra, +91 22 6668 1234 tajhotels.com Doubles from £120, room only

THE OBEROI, MUMBAI

The sleek Oberoi hotel has an enviable position right on Marine Drive, the stunning. 4.3 km promenade, fondly named 'the Queen's Necklace' (because of the string of lights that illuminate it), with its far-reaching views of the wide-open sea and the city skyline. An oasis of calm in the heart of the city, The Oberoi has attracted the likes of Bill Clinton, Richard Gere and Bill Gates. Rooms are built around a cool, contemporary, dazzling white atrium lobby with a pillar-box red grand piano. Enjoy the floor-to-ceiling cityscape from the comfort of your crisp white linen bed or while soaking in the glass-screened tub. Outside on the rooftop gardens the bijou pool is a perfect place for an afternoon nap before hitting the streets.

The Oberoi, Mumbai, Marine Drive, Nariman Point.

+91 22 6632 5757, oberoihotels.com. Doubles from £130, room only