Words by Kathryn Tomasetti
Hôtel du Petit Moulin
Where to Stay in Paris
With a scattering of hotels designed by fashion icons, Paris’ best guestrooms are akin to bedding down in an exclusive atelier. Decadent Hôtel du Petit Moulin (29/31 rue de Poitou, 75003, +33 1 42 74 10 10, hotelpetitmoulinparis.com, room-only doubles from £163) and softer-on-the-it-bag Hôtel Le Notre Dame (1 quai Saint-Michel, 75005, +33 1 43 54 20 43, hotelnotredameparis.com, room-only doubles from £116), have both been decked out in surreal collage wallpaper and textiles by Christian Lacroix.
In mid September, former royal residence Shangri-La (10 avenue d’Iéna, 75116; +33 1 53 67 19 98, shangri-la.com/paris, room-only doubles from £880) – party hotspot for the likes of Kate Moss and Arizona Muse – opened its sumptuous Garden Wing. Philippe Starck-designed Le Royal Monceau (37 avenue Hoche, 75008, +33 1 42 99 88 00, leroyalmonceau.com, room-only doubles from £700), with its in-house art gallery and Le Royal Eclaireur concept store (leclaireur.com), attracts design aristocracy each Fashion Week. As does the city’s newest addition, the W Hotel (4 rue Meyerbeer, 75009, +33 1 77 48 94 94, wparisopera.com, room-only doubles from £205), whose opening party was rocked by Mark Ronson and The Strokes.
For under-the-radar glamour, Hôtel Thoumieux (79 rue Saint Dominique, 75007, +33 1 47 05 79 00, thoumieux.fr, room-only doubles from £170) is the result of the creative collaboration between hotel legend Thierry Costes and Michelin-starred chef Jean-François Piège.
Where to Eat in Paris
Brand-new Le Dépanneur (27 rue Pierre Fontaine, 75009, +33 1 48 74 48 74, ledepanneurpigalle.com) has already made local waves. Tucked into the ever-edgy Pigalle neighbourhood, the Californian-style, pale wood restaurant dishes up chilled ceviche and gourmet burgers, as well as your pick of dozens of artisan tequilas.
For neighbourhood charm, it’s hard to beat the eclectic 11th arrondissement. Try Au Passage (1 bis passage Saint Sébastien, 75011, +33 1 43 55 07 52) for rabbit stewed with fresh plums, or caper-studded beef tartare. Alternatively, head to Aux Deux Amis (45 rue Oberkampf, 75011, +33 1 58 30 38 13), where tapas (think gazpacho drizzled in green olive oil, melt-in-your-mouth mozzarella or verbena-spiked panna cotta) are served up with understated glam.
Up for a serious splurge? Caviar Kaspia 17 place de la Madeleine, 75018, +33 1 42 65 33 32, caviarkaspia.com) has been going strong since 1927. Keep an eye out for fashion fans, such as Irina Lazareanu and Giambattista Valli, relishing the restaurant’s eponymous delicacy, alongside a flute or two of Krug.
Where to Go Out in Paris
As the shows wind down, cool kids head to old-school Chez Jeannette (47 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 750010, +33 1 47 70 30 89) for beers and platters of charcuterie. The recently opened Le Mary Celeste (1 rue Commines, 75003, no tel, lemaryceleste.com) has wowed the Marais neighbourhood, shaking up killer cocktails (try the Judy Blue Eyes), dishing up wild oysters and hosting the occasional pop-up raw-juice bar.
Hipsters head on to Le Trianon (80 boulevard Rochechouart, 75018, +33 1 44 92 78 00, letrianon.fr), a 19th-century music hall turned eclectic concert venue, with almost nightly shows from the likes of Olly Murs and the Editors. YSL, Maison Martin Margiela and APC have each hosted catwalks and post-show events here.
Still hot on the local scene is David Lynch’s Silencio (142 rue Montmartre, 75002; +33 1 40 13 12 32, silencio-club.com), inspired by the creepy nightclub in Mulholland Drive. Developed in collaboration with local electro maestros, Social Club, it’s the first private members’ club in Paris. Open to non-members after midnight.
Where to Shop in Paris
Kim and Kayne may strut their stuff along avenue Montaigne and rue Saint-Honore, but once you’ve strolled these hollowed streets it’s time for a touch of offbeat-chic. Lenny Guerrier purveys an über-cool range of threads, shoes, homewares and accessories sourced from little-known designers around the globe at Coïncidence (11 rue Chapon, 75003, coincidenceparis.com). Or hit concept store N15 (15 place du Marche Saint-Honore, 75001, +33 1 42 86 92 76, n15.fr), packed with a memorable mix of vintage – particularly iconic 1960s and 70s styles – plus current up-and-coming names.
And what would Paris be without a little indulgence? A very sorry trip indeed. Step into brand-new Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse (40 rue de la Roquette, +33 1 48 05 82 86, lechocolat-alainducasse.com) to stock up on tasting boxes of gourmet ganaches, old-fashioned pralines and liquor-laced truffles.
What to Wear in Paris
Orange has been stylish throughout 2013, but this season everything from skinny jeans to sporty anoraks is autumnal rusty-red or cobalt blue. Monochrome – whether prints and solids – are also favoured by trendsetters in the know. A Breton-striped top may be a sartorial cliché, but fashionistas – including Alexa Chung – still don this effortlessly chic staple. And if your plans include hitting the boutiques and boogieing all night, you’re definitely going to pound a pavement or two. Slip on a pair of ballerines (Repetto models are permanently on trend) or up the ante with Isabel Marant ankle boots.
Don’t Leave Paris Without…
… a dizzying injection of cutting-edge culture. The iconic Palais de Tokyo (13 avenue du Président Wilson, 75116, +33 1 81 97 35 88, palaisdetokyo.com) was expanded last year to almost triple its previous size. Now the largest contemporary art space in Europe, it tumbles down to the Seine, encompassing terraced gardens and the innovative restaurant Tokyo Eat.
For die-hard fashion fiends, the much-anticipated Musée Galleria (10 avenue Pierre Ier de Serbie, 75116, +33 1 56 52 86 00, parismusees.paris.fr) reopened in late September 2013 following lengthy renovations. Showcasing trends from the 18th-century to the present day, exhibitions highlight famed couturiers through the fashion age.
Where to Go for Pampering in Paris
From anti-aging masks to slimming body wraps, Parisians know how to pamper. Follow the city’s fashion elite to Ambassade de la Beauté (32 Champs-Elysées, 75008, +33 1 42 25 02 92, biologique-recherche.us). The flagship beauty institute for botanical brand Biologique Recherche, it’s renowned for VIP oxygen facials and detox algae massages.
We may be able to enjoy Nuxe products (hello Dry Oil spray obsession!) in the UK, but Paris is the place to wallow in their sumptuous spa. With its vaulted stone therapy zones and natural design, the Spa Nuxe (32-34 rue Montorgueil, 75001, +33 1 42 36 65 65, fr.nuxe.com/spa-nuxe-32-34-montorgueil) is a delight. Their new, blissfully relaxing Escapade Nirvanesque (90 minutes, £117, combination facial and body treatment) is our new best friend.